Florence & Sienna 1

The unspoken truth about Florence is, granting its supreme setting for Renaissance art, how dull a place it is. Beautiful, but moribund, a center of money and status for so long that it has forgotten how to be vital. Lacking Rome’s grandeur, Venice’s mystery, and Naples’ dirty vitality, it is just sort of there, a lovely box on an antique table, vacant and beautiful, a center for connoisseurs and students and almost no one else. For a few days I frequented the tiny Art Bar near the Piazza Goldoni, which had an untypical vitality, but that was about it. (cont.)

Part Two